TEXTURE BASICS

Below are two examples of how to texture or flock terrain and model bases, as well as some further examples of interesting texture variations. The first example shows how to create a fine, even texture, while the second details how to make a coarse and rocky texture. The order of the pictures corresponds to the numbers below the images.
To start things off, water down some wood glue. A 1:4 mix of water to glue will work just fine. Optionally, you can water it down on the fly by repeatedly adding water to the glue as you go. Use an old, ragged brush and spread the glue over the area to be textured. Work fast and cover small sections at a time as the glue will begin to dry if you work too large or slow. If you really need to cover a large area, mix up a tub of watered-down glue ahead of time and use a large brush to spread the glue around. Either way, move quickly or the glue will not be as sticky as it needs to be.
Before you add the sand, it is a really good idea to place some sort of bucket or flat container underneath the object to catch the excess sand. Now, using some fine sand, sprinkle a handful over the glue-covered area to be textured. Gently shake off the excess sand into the bucket after each application of sand. If you are working in small sections, simply repeat the process until the area is completely covered.
Once the piece it textured, let it sit for a bit. Your best bet is to be patient and wait overnight. However, you impatient folks can usually get away with waiting a mere 2 hours or so. The sand will now be firmly attached and ready for a basecoat of paint. So, grab a large brush and start applying some Chaos Black paint! You can use a spray can to speed things up if necessary. You are now ready to paint.
 
  
Coarse texture is best created by using wood glue, since the stronger bond helps keep the larger granules of sand in place. Spread the glue onto the area to be textured. Use a 1:4 ratio of water and glue. Work fast and cover small sections at a time since the glue will begin to dry if you work too large or slow. If you really need to cover a large area, mix up a tub of watered-down glue ahead of time and use a large brush to spread the glue around. Either way, move quickly or the glue will not be as tacky as it needs to be.
Before you add the sand, it is a really good idea to place some sort of bucket or flat container underneath the object to catch the excess sand. Now, using a coarse sand mixture, sprinkle a handful over the glue-covered area to be textured. Gently shake off the excess sand into the bucket after each application of sand.
Once the area is covered, it is good practice to place a drop of glue over really large pebbles and bits. This drop will ensure that they stays put and don't fall off during painting. Use a 1:1 ratio of glue to water for this. Now, wait for it to dry and then lay down a basecoat of Chaos Black paint.
   

Above are two examples of additional ways you can texture a piece. The first one is a simple combination of fine sand and coarse sand dispersed in a random fashion. This mix breaks up the uniformity of a fine texture with a few clumps of rocks here and there. The second example uses a few broken balsa wood sticks and larger sand grains to create a debris-filled area. Balsa wood is really just a starting point, because you can use wagon wheels, knives, barrels, and more to give off a debris-strewn feel. When using large piece of debris, you may want to use super glue or go back and place a drop of glue over really large pebbles and bits to ensure they stay in place.  




GRASS PLAINS

The steps below show you how to create a simple green texture resembling a slightly muddy field. Keep in mind that between the drybrushing stages, it is helpful to just keep the color you currently have on your brush and dip into the next color. This helps blend the two colors of paint in a natural fashion while you drybrush. However, you don't want to do so if the two colors are radically different. If you have no clue how to make this texture, visit the basics section and learn how!          

To start things off, drybrush Scorched Brown over the entire area. This will give the piece an earthy undertone.
Next, heavily drybrush Dark Angels Green over the area. Heavy means to have a decent amount of paint on your brush.
Continuing on, use Snot Green. You will begin to see some results at this point as you drybrush.
Now, apply Goblin Green. Drybrush the area pretty thoroughly, though it will help the overall effect if you concentrate on certain areas and leave some areas alone. This will help distribute the color so it doesn't look too even and artificial. At this point, you can consider everything done.
This last step is completely optional, though it doesn't look half bad! Apply a very light drybrushing of Bleached Bone on a few select areas to give the texture more depth. That's about it!

Other Ideas: Variations on this color scheme can involve more vibrant greens like Scorpion Green or duller tones that can be produced by adding another deep brown, like Dark Flesh, to the earlier stages.

  

BROKEN GRASS PLAINS

The steps below show you how to produce a green field with clumps of rough ground. Keep in mind that between the drybrushing stages, it is helpful to just keep the color you currently have on your brush and dip into the next color. This helps blend the two colors of paint in a natural fashion while you drybrush. However you don't want to do so if the two colors are radically different. If you have no clue how to make this texture, visit the basics section and learn how!

Start off with a drybrush of Scorched Brown over everything, making sure to heavily drybrush the rocky areas. Once this dries, heavily drybrush Dark Angels Green onto the grass areas only, avoiding the rocky bits. It will help to have a separate brush ready for each color as you go. Things will move quicker and the colors will keep better. 
Drybrush Snot Green on all the grassy areas and then use Dark Flesh for the rough ground. Be careful not to be sloppy and get green where you want brown!
Moving along, drybrush with Goblin Green and Bestial Brown onto their respective areas.
Carefully drybrush the larger rocks with Bubonic Brown and lightly drybrush the rough areas as well. Focus your attention on a few rocks. The green areas are pretty much done with, so go back and touch up any sloppy painting now.
To finish, use a mix of Bleached Bone and a tinge of Bubonic Brown to highlight a few of the more interesting rocks. Also, if you wish, very lightly drybrush Bleached Bone on the green areas. At this point, you can consider yourself done.
As an interesting option, use some sort of static grass. There are tons of different colors out there, just find one you like and use it. Applying static grass is a simple matter of spreading some glue in the desired area and then sprinkling static grass on the spot. When placed in strategic patches here and there, the end result makes for realistic terrain.

Other Ideas:Various greens could be used for different grass effects, and some of the rocks could be picked out with a separate color like Codex Grey for example. Also, you could just paint the rocky areas using the Coarse Ash Plain color scheme.

  

FINE EARTH

The steps below show you how to produce an earthy, dirt plain. Keep in mind that between the drybrushing stages, it is helpful to just keep the color you currently have on your brush and dip into the next color. This helps blend the two colors of paint in a natural fashion while you drybrush. However you don't want to do so if the two colors are radically different. If you have no clue how to make this texture, visit the basics section and learn how!   

To start things off, drybrush Scorched Brown over the entire area. This will give the piece a good, earthy undertone.
Next, heavily drybrush Dark Flesh over the area. Heavy means to have a decent amount of paint on your brush.
Continuing on, use Bestial Brown next. You will begin to see some results at this point as you drybrush.
Using Bubonic Brown, drybrush the area pretty thoroughly, though it will help the overall effect if you concentrate on certain areas and leave some areas alone. This will help distribute the color so it doesn't look too even and artificial.
Finally grab Bleached Bone and lightly drybrush a few areas selectively. At this point, you can consider everything done.
As an interesting option, use some sort of static grass. There are tons of different colors out there, just find one you like and use it. Applying static grass is a simple matter of spreading some glue in the desired area and then sprinkling static grass on the spot. When placed in strategic patches here and there, the end result makes for realistic terrain.
Other Ideas: To create a darker earth tone, just ignore the Bubonic Brown and Bleached Bone stages. Instead, mix Bubonic Brown and Bestial Brown together for a final highlight. If you want to incorporate some rocky areas into the mix, check out theCoarse Earth step-by-step page.  

  

COARSE EARTH

The steps below show you how to produce a coarse, earthy texture. Keep in mind that between the drybrushing stages, it is helpful to just keep the color you currently have on your brush and dip into the next color. This helps blend the two colors of paint in a natural fashion while you drybrush. However you don't want to do so if the two colors are radically different. If you have no clue how to make this texture, visit the basics section and learn how! 
To start things off, drybrush Scorched Brown over the entire area. This will give the piece a good, earthy undertone.
Next, heavily drybrush Dark Flesh over the area. Heavy means to have a decent amount of paint on your brush.
Continuing on, use Bestial Brown. You will begin to see some results at this point as you drybrush. Concentrate on large rock clusters as these will pick up the paint nicely.
Using Bubonic Brown, drybrush the area pretty thoroughly, though it will help the overall effect if you concentrate on certain areas and leave some areas alone. This will help distribute the color so it doesn't look too even and artificial.
Lastly, use Bleached Bone to hit a few of the more interesting rocky bits. At this point you can consider yourself done.
As an interesting option, use some sort of static grass. There are tons of different colors out there, just find one you like and use it. Applying static grass is a simple matter of spreading some glue in the desired area and then sprinkling static grass on the spot. When placed in strategic patches here and there, the end result makes for realistic terrain.
Other Ideas: To create a darker earth tone, just ignore the Bubonic Brown and Bleached Bone Stages. Instead, mix Bubonic Brown and Bestial Brown together for a final highlight. 
  

FINE DESERT

Following the steps below will produce a dry barren desert. Keep in mind that between the drybrushing stages, it is helpful to just keep the color you currently have on your brush and dip into the next color. This helps blend the two colors of paint in a natural fashion while you drybrush. However, you don't want to do so if the two colors are radically different. If you have no clue how to make this texture, visit the basics section and learn how! 
To start things off, heavily drybrush Scorched Brown over the entire area. This will give the piece an earthy undertone.
Next, heavily drybrush Dark Flesh over the area. Heavy means to have a decent amount of paint on your brush.
Continuing on, use Bestial Brown next. You will begin to see some results at this point as you drybrush. Again, use a heavy hand at this stage.
Using Bubonic Brown, drybrush the area pretty thoroughly. Try to lay the paint down in an even manner.
Next, use Bleached Bone to apply another heavy coat of even drybrushing. You'll begin to see the desert effect come to life at this point.
To finish things off, apply a fresh coat of Skull White. Drybrush lightly and thoroughly for the best effect. You will now have a finished desert texture.
 

Options: You could add a few plastic Skeleton bitz and skulls to enhance the arid feel of a lifeless desert. Also, you could place some small patches of dried-up, brownish static grass or even use lush green static grass to simulate the edge of an oasis.

  

COARSE DESERT

 

The steps below show you how to produce a dry, rocky desert. Keep in mind that between the drybrushing stages, it is helpful to just keep the color you currently have on your brush and dip into the next color. This helps blend the two colors of paint in a natural fashion while you drybrush. However, you don't want to do so if the two colors are radically different. If you have no clue how to make this texture, visit the basics section and learn how! 

 

To start things off, heavily drybrush Scorched Brown over the entire area. This will give the piece an earthy undertone.

 

Next, heavily drybrush Dark Flesh over the area. Pay attention to large rock clusters as they will produce the most depth for the texture.

 

Continuing on, use Bestial Brown. You will begin to see some results at this point as you drybrush. Again, use a heavy hand at this stage.

 

Using Bubonic Brown, drybrush the area pretty thoroughly. Try to lay the paint down in an even manner.

 

Next, use Bleached Bone to apply another heavy coat of even drybrushing. You'll begin to see the desert effect come to life at this point.

 

To finish things off, apply a fresh coat of Skull White. Drybrush lightly and thoroughly for the best effect. Try and hit the large rock clusters with the most paint. At this point you can consider yourself finished!

 

As an interesting option, use some sort of static grass. There are tons of different colors out there, just find one you like and use it. Applying static grass is a simple matter of spreading some glue in the desired area and then sprinkling static grass on the spot. When placed in strategic patches here and there, the end result is makes for realistic terrain.

Options: You could add a few plastic Skeleton bitz and skulls to enhance the arid feel of a lifeless desert. Also, you could use lush green static grass to simulate the edge of an oasis. 
  

ASH WASTE

The steps below show you how to produce a dead, blasted plain. Keep in mind that between the drybrushing stages, it is helpful to just keep the color you currently have on your brush and dip into the next color. This helps blend the two colors of paint in a natural fashion while you drybrush. However, you don't want to do so if the two colors are radically different. If you have no clue how to make this texture, visit the basics section and learn how!
To start things off, drybrush Scorched Brown heavily over the entire area. This coat will give the piece an earthy undertone.
Next, heavily drybrush Codex Grey over the area. Heavy means to have a decent amount of paint on your brush.
Moving on, use Fortress Grey next. You will begin to see some results at this point as you drybrush. Again, use a heavy hand at this stage.
To finish up, use Ghostly Grey to drybrush the surface evenly. If you wish, a little Skull White can be mixed in with the Ghostly Grey used to enhance the effect. At this point you can consider yourself finished!.
As an interesting option, use some sort of static grass. There are tons of different colors out there, just find one you like and use it. Applying static grass is a simple matter of spreading some glue in the desired area and then sprinkling static grass on the spot. When placed in strategic patches here and there, the end result makes for realistic terrain.
Options: You could add some clumps of rocks using a coarser grain of sand before painting to break up the flat, even surface.

COARSE ASH WASTE

The steps below show you how to produce a rocky ash waste. Keep in mind that between the drybrushing stages, it is helpful to just keep the color you currently have on your brush and dip into the next color. This helps blend the two colors of paint in a natural fashion while you drybrush. However, you don't want to do so if the two colors are radically different. If you have no clue how to make this texture, visit the basics section and learn how!

To start things off, heavily drybrush Scorched Brown over the entire area. This will give the piece an earthy undertone.

 

 Next, heavily drybrush Codex Grey over the area. Pay attention to the large rock clusters as they will need to show the most depth and texture due to their size.

 Continuing on, use Fortress Grey next. You will begin to see some results at this point as you drybrush. Again, use a heavy hand at this stage.

To finish up, use Ghostly Grey to drybrush the surface. If you wish, a little Skull White can be mixed in with the Ghostly Grey used to enhance the effect. Focus on the clumps of rocks for the best results. At this point, you can consider yourself finished!

As an interesting option, use some sort of static grass. There are tons of different colors out there, just find one you like and use it. Applying static grass is a simple matter of spreading some glue in the desired area and then sprinkling static grass on the spot. When placed in strategic patches here and there, the end result makes for realistic terrain.

SCATTERED DEBRIS

The steps below show you how to produce a debris-filled terrain piece. Between the drybrushing stages, it is a good idea to just keep the color you currently have on your brush and dip into the next color. This helps blend the two colors of paint in a natural fashion while you drybrush. However, you don't want to do so if the two colors are radically different. If you have no clue how to make this texture, visit the basics section and learn how!

To start things off, heavily drybrush Scorched Brown over the entire area. This will give the piece a good, earthy undertone. Paint the wood planks with a solid coat of Scorched Brown.

Next, heavily drybrush Dark Flesh over the area. Drybrush the planks from all angles.

Heavily drybrush with Bestial Brown next. You will begin to see some results at this point as you drybrush.

Using Bubonic Brown, drybrush the area thoroughly. Brush the tips of the wood planks and pay attention to the hard edges as they will pick up the paint nicely. 

  Lastly, apply a light coat of Bleached Bone. There is no need to be heavy handed; lightly drybrush specific spots and the edges of the wood planking. At this point, you can consider yourself finished!

  As an interesting option, apply static grass. There are tons of different colors out there – just find one you like and use it. Applying static grass is a simple matter of spreading glue in the desired area and sprinkling static grass on the spot. When placed in strategic patches here and there, the end result makes for realistic terrain.

Options: There are tons of other things you could do to create cool debris effects. Just have a look in your bitz box, and you should find some inspiring items to guide your project. Get creative and when it comes time to paint them, take your time. Don't rush!  

  

 

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